August 2008


 

 

Watching a Classic Italian Film

 

Among the many Italian films I have watched this summer (to maintain my language skill) is “Il Grido” (The Scream) by Antonioni from the 1960s. The four leading performers in this film are: Steve Cochran, Betsy Blair, Lyn Shaw, and Alida Valli – only one Italian.  I doubt that the others spoke Italian, but in Italy film soundtracks were (and still may be) all dubbed, even those in Italian.  I’ve been told that the Italian film studios did not have secure sound stages to record dialog as the film was shot.  It is also probably true that it is cheaper to dub dialog than it is to take sound equipment on location.

 

Buying a Train Ticket in the USA

 

You can order an AMTRAK ticket on the  computer, but you have to pick it up at the train station.  You cannot get an e ticket, as the airlines have.  In Italy you can even get a ticket via text message on your cell phone.  You simply show the text message to the conductor when he comes to collect tickets.  As I have mentioned, there are situations in which Italy is more modern than the USA.

 

The Beauty of Adams County, Pennsylvania

 

I went recently to the opening of a new winery near Gettysburg.  It is located on the top of a hill that commands a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside. The vista is beautiful.  Tuscany is known around the world for its lovely landscape, but at times Pennsylvania is similarly gorgeous. What Tuscany has, that Pennsylvania does not, is charming villages nestled in the hillsides. 

 

Adopt a Highway

 

This is a program under which organizations and businesses in the USA agree to clean up periodically a stretch of a local highway.  Thus the groups are doing a job for which the government would otherwise have to pay or which might go undone. This kind of program is unlikely in Italy. In Italy the idea is that the citizens pay taxes, and it is the government’s job to provide all necessary services.  A small example of a lower sense of civic pride and responsibility in Italy.

 

Signs and Things Inconvenient 

 

If you go into a store in Italy where things are a bit upset because the store is remodeling the premises, you might see a sign saying something like “We sincerely ask for the patience of our esteemed customers while we are altering our premises to serve you better.”  Such signs are always in extremely polite language. If, on the other hand, the bathroom is not working, there will simply be a sign “broken” on the door.  Things like bathrooms not functioning are so common that they do not call for a polite explanation. I thought of this recently when I saw a sign on a broken water fountain in a museum in the USA that said “Out of order. We apologize for the inconvenience.”  You won’t see that sign in Italy.

 

Newsweek Praises Berlusconi

 

Generally the US press does not speak well of Berlusconi so the article below is an interesting exception. It implies that Berlusconi has been able to do much now because he has a solid majority in Parliament, but in fact he had a solid majority too in his last government and accomplished little. As the article points out the anti-immigration move plays well with the public, but probably does not address the real problem of crime.  The immunity bill for top politicians mentioned certainly does not benefit Italy as a whole. Berlusconi has made a start in seriously addressing the Naples garbage problem although they still may be sending a lot of garbage to Germany to be processed there.  Here we see the typical Italian ploy of a splashy initiative to a problem which usually has little or no follow-up.  Stay tuned on the garbage issue as well as the issue of facing the big underlying economic problems of the nation.

 

 

In his first 100 days in office, Silvio Berlusconi may have done the impossible: to a degree unprecedented in modern Italian history, he asserted control over this seemingly ungovernable nation. The opposition parties are mired in squabbling, and Berlusconi, now prime minister for the third time since 1994, has an approval rating of 55 percent—higher than Britain’s Gordon Brown, France’s Nicolas Sarkozy or Spain’s José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero.

That anyone in Italy has managed to be so successful is surprising. More than most Western European countries, Italy has long been bedeviled by corruption and a system that gives disproportionate political weight to small parties. Berlusconi’s predecessor, Romano Prodi, was stymied by his center-left party’s tiny Senate majority and the government’s fractious nine-party coalition. But Berlusconi, the 72-year-old media mogul, cannily exploited a 2005 electoral law that wiped out these small parties to win a surprise landslide victory from which the opposition is still trying to recover.

His center-right party now has 174 seats in the Senate (versus the left’s 132) and while he enjoys something of a honeymoon period with the electorate, he has also wasted little time in consolidating his authority. One of his first acts: pushing through a bill that gives the top four national officeholders, including the prime minister himself, immunity from prosecution while in office. The bill passed overwhelmingly last month, and put an end to outstanding criminal proceedings against Berlusconi (which he and supporters say were politically driven).

 

That this new law was a possible conflict of interest did not go by unnoticed, but Italians are feeling too poor to pay it much attention. After 10 years of near-zero economic growth—Bank of America predicts 0.5 percent growth this year—they are demanding security, financial and otherwise. And Berlusconi is delivering, with an iron-fist-in-velvet-glove competence. Emblematic has been his ability to clean up Naples, buried for months under trash in part because the surrounding communities simply did not trust the government to manage the landfills. Ever the showman, Berlusconi held cabinet meetings in Naples—fulfilling a campaign promise to do so until the trash was cleared—and appointed a “garbage czar” to fix the problem. In July, Parliament approved Berlusconi’s plan to open new landfills and incinerators, and permit soldiers to protect temporary landfills from angry residents. Days later Berlusconi said 50,000 tons of trash had been removed.

With a similar resolve he tackled the perception that violent crime is on the rise (despite data showing otherwise), and that foreigners are to blame for it. In July, the government declared a state of emergency to fight illegal immigration and proposed a law mandating fingerprinting for all Roma living in camps in Italy. Berlusconi softened the plan in the face of opposition from human-rights groups and the European Union. But in early August, he deployed thousands of troops throughout Italy in a bid to crack down on immigration and petty crime.

Such tough tactics could give Berlusconi the cover to tackle some of Italy’s deeper issues. Italians now pay some of the highest taxes in Western Europe, at 43 percent, and have some of the lowest salaries—leading to widespread tax evasion. Public debt remains at more than 100 percent of GDP; servicing it costs Italy 5 percent to 6 percent of GDP annually, says Bank of America’s Gilles Moec. Berlusconi has pledged to reduce spending (in contrast to his first term), but doing so will make it harder to fulfill a pledge to cut taxes or to stimulate growth. Yet Berlusconi must figure out a way. Italians like him now, but what they really want is economic stability. Cleaning up trash and harassing immigrants won’t be enough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off Beat Museums in USA and Italy

 

In Italy I have been to the Pasta Museum in Rome and the Wine Museum in Torgiano.  I’m sure Italy has many more topical museums, but I think the USA may have more of this genre.  On my way from Gettysburg to Chicago recently, we passed signs for

The Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, The College Football Hall of Fame in South Bend, and the Recreational Vehicle and Motor Home Hall of Fame in Elkhart, Indiana. We passed the last of these which is along to toll way, but unfortunately it was already closed for the day. I know that in Melrose Park, a suburb of Chicago, there is the

Italian American Athletic Hall of Fame.

 

 

The Culture of Friendliness

 

While staying at the Marriott Resort outside of Chicago, I noticed that every time any employee of the hotel passed by you, he or she said good morning (or good afternoon if appropriate). Obviously employees are told to do this.  Of course the USA is the “have a good day” nation. There is a culture of overt friendliness towards customers that some people find phony.  Part of this culture surely is forced, but, on the other hand, the tradition of continually expressing a friendly attitude (despite what one’s real feelings may be) in the long run probably also makes people more genuinely friendly too.

 

Don’t Let the Little Things Upset You

 

This generally is a good philosophy of life.  We all tend to get bothered by things that in the long run really do not matter much. There is a down side, however, to this perspective.  In Italy a lot of little things are not done well.  If you point one of these things out to an Italian, you may well get a dismissive comment about the relative unimportance of such a minor inconvenience. Yet these little things can add up after a while.  If enough little things are done poorly, then eventually this does affect the overall pleasantness of your life.  Everyday life in Italy (which certainly is not unpleasant on the whole) is negatively affected by the accumulation of things that, in themselves, seem quite minor.

 

 

Comment on Italian Politics

 

I’ve mentioned that Italians in general have a low opinion of President Bush. This certainly accounts for a great deal of the fact that 70% of Italians surveyed prefer Obama to McCain.  Still as the item below, from the American Internet newsletter “Only in Italy” shows, some Americans can give an equally jaundiced view of Italian politics—in this case the Northern League that is part of the governing coalition in Italy.

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Milan – July 18, 2008 – Diners hungry for Chinese carry-out or Middle Eastern kebabs in Italy could have their choices limited under a regional law proposed by the anti-immigrant Northern League on Thursday.

The League called for the Lombardy regional council to allow cities to bar from their historic centers businesses that are “incompatible with the historical context.”

“For example, fast food, Chinese restaurants, kebab, sex shops are types of commercial activity that clash heavily with a 1,000-year-old historic district, as is typical of Lombard reality,” Daniele Belotti, a regional councilor with the League, said in a statement.

The measure is aimed at maintaining the character of historic town and city centers, it said.

Lombardy is the stronghold of the Northern League, part of Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi’s conservative coalition, and Italy’s industrial heartland.

Other Italian regions, such as Tuscany, have laws that allow cities to limit business in their historic centers, Belotti said.

Like elsewhere in Europe, more and more Italians eat meals away from home and their traditional Mediterranean diet that includes pasta, fish, olive oil and red wine is losing ground.

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“Ahhh, sta pippa!” Italian politicians hard at work creating the perfect civil environment.

The polenta-slurping racist members of the Northern League party have a tough, and often harsh, stance on crime, illegal immigration (especially from Muslim countries), Southern Italians (often dubbed as “terroni”), and terrorism. The party supports immigration from non-Muslim countries in order to protect the “Christian identity” of Italy and Europe, which, according to harebrained party officials, should be based on so-called “Judeo-Christian heritage”.

Hard to believe, the party leadership dismisses charges of racism and declares itself loving and non-violent. However; there have been instances of speeches, interviews and banners pointing otherwise. The supreme peckerhead leader, Umberto Bossi himself, who described African immigrants as “Bingo-Bongos”, in an interview suggested opening fire on the boats of immigrants who would disembark in Italy, but after widespread criticism he declared he was referring to empty boats.

Erminio Boso, a sparkling and gifted local leading jackass from the Province of Trento, proposed to segregate immigrants in different train cars from native Italians.

The former lustrous and compassionate mayor of Treviso, Giancarlo Gentilini, while in office, spoke about those he called “immigrant slackers”, saying, “We should dress them up like hares and bang-bang-bang.”

Umberto Bossi: “The Lega [Nord] must be like an army at war: desertions are not permitted; whoever maneuvers in the underworld of other parties will be unmasked and hunted down without mercy. Imagine finding this in your next fortune cookie.

“Cazzo”, what one has to put up with just for a take out order of Kung Pow chicken and fried rice!